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Skirts were now assembled of shaped panels, since gathering a straight length of fabric could not provide the width required at the hem without unwanted bulk at the waist; this spelled the end of the brief fashion for border-printed dress fabrics.

Heavy silks in solid colors became fashionable for both day and evening wear, and a skirt might be made with two bodices , one long-sleeved and high necked for afternoon wear and one short-sleeved and low-necked for evening.

The bodices themselves were often triangular, and featured a two-piece front with a closure and a three-piece back construction. As the decade progressed, sleeves narrowed, and the circular hoops of the s decreased in size at the front and sides and increased at the back.

Looped up overskirts revealed matching or contrasting underskirts, a look that would reach its ultimate expression the next two decades with the rise of the bustle.

Waistlines rose briefly at the end of the decade. Fashions were adopted more slowly in America than in Europe.

It was not uncommon for fashion plates to appear in American women's magazines a year or more after they appeared in Paris or London.

Long coats were impractical with the very full skirts, and the common outer garments were square shawls folded on the diagonal to make a triangle and fitted or unfitted hip-length or knee-length jackets.

For walking, jackets were accompanied by floor-length skirts that could be looped or drawn up by means of tapes over a shorter petticoat. As skirts became narrower and flatter in front, more emphasis was placed on the waist and hips.

A corset was therefore used to help mold the body to the desired shape. This was achieved by making the corsets longer than before, and by constructing them from separate shaped pieces of fabric.

To increase rigidity, they were reinforced with many strips of whalebone, cording, or pieces of leather. As well as making corsets more constricting, this heavy structure helped prevent them from riding up, or from wrinkling at the waist.

Steam-molding also helped create a curvaceous contour. The crinoline or hooped petticoat had grown to its maximum dimensions by As huge skirts began to fall from favor, around , the shape of the crinoline began to change.

Rather than being dome-shaped, the front and sides began to contract, leaving volume only at the back. The "American" cage, a hooped petticoat partially covered in fabric, came in bright colors made possible by the new aniline dyes.

The cage structure was still attached around the waist and extended down to the ground, but only extended down the back of the wearer's legs.

The crinolette itself was quickly superseded by the true bustle, which was sufficient for supporting the drapery and train at the back of the skirt.

A chemise is typically short sleeve and knee length made of linen or cotton. The chemise and stockings worn were meant to soak up any perspiration and protecting the outer clothing.

Due to the many layers of dress, the women of the southern elite would take short naps to rest from wearing their large dress and escape the harsh southern heat and the constraining whalebone corsets.

Following a visit by the Italian revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi to England in , the shirt became all the rage there.

In America , the early years of the Civil War also saw increased popularity of military-influenced styles such as Zouave jackets.

These new styles were worn over a waist blouse or chemisette and a skirt with a belt at the natural waistline. Women's fashion overall was highly influenced by the reigning Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom.

The Englishman Charles Frederick Worth had established his first fashion house in Paris in He was the first couturier , a dressmaker considered an artist, and his ability to dictate design in the s led to the dominance of Parisian haute couture for the next hundred years.

The followers of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood and other artistic reformers objected to the elaborately trimmed confections of high fashion with their emphasis on rigid corsets and hoops as both ugly and dishonest.

An "anti-fashion" for Artistic dress spread in the s in literary and artistic circles, and remained an undercurrent for the rest of the century.

The style was characterised by " medieval " influences such as juliette sleeves , the soft colors of vegetable dyes , narrow skirts, and simple ornamentation with hand embroidery.

Material used in the southern American elite were silk , velvet , muslin and fine lawn. Hair was worn parted in the middle and smoothed, waved, or poofed over the ears, then braided or "turned up" and pinned into a roll or low bun at the back of the neck.

Such styling was usually maintained by the use of hair oils and pomades. Styled hair was often further confined in decorative hairnets, especially by younger women.

NOTE: Although many modern reenactors refer to this garment as a " snood ", [ citation needed ] it is not a period term for this article of clothing; snoods were something else entirely.

These hairnets were frequently made of very fine material to match the wearer's natural hair color, but occasionally more elaborate versions were made of thin strips of velvet or chenille sometimes decorated with beads.

Whether plain or resplendent, many hairnets were edged with ruchings of ribbon that would serve to adorn the crown of the wearer's head.

Fashion Bonnets for outdoor wear had small brims that revealed the face. Earlier bonnets of the decade had lower brims. League Asia Challenge J.

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